Overrated: Merlot a 'not ready for prime time' wine
Filed under: Food
I can't afford to be a wine snob, but let's pretend for a moment that I could. The first bit of snobbery you'd see from me would be the banishing of all but the most famous merlot varietal wines from my cellar. I'm right there with Miles in the movie Sideways when he says, "If anyone orders a f****** Merlot, I'm leaving."
Understand that I'm not referring to the Merlots of the Pomerol region such as Chateau Petrus, the priciest wine in the world. (No, I've never been able to afford a Petrus. Yet.) I'm referring to those grapes strip-mined in the vineyards of California, Chile and other bulk producing countries.
Those Merlot grapes are not a cinch to grow, as they have thin skins, are susceptible to rot, mildew and various maladies, and are intolerant of extreme weather. However, the wines mature quickly and, though a bit insipid, have a hint of Cab's variety of bouquets, enough so that many producers have deluded themselves into producing 100% Merlot wines.
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Merlot blends well with superior grapes such as cabernet sauvignon for some great wines such as Chateau Lafite Rothschild. As a varietal, however, I find the reasonably priced bottles lack complexity and depth, while the bottom tier reminds me of unsweetened cranberry juice. Other critics use words such as "thin, acidic, and green."
That's what I'd write about Merlot, if I were a wine snob. Don't agree? Perhaps a glass of Chateau Petrus would sway my opinion... A guy can dream, can't he?



Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
9-11-2008 @ 9:10AM
Audrey said...
Ha! I'll tell you what's overrated... wine snobs who claim not to be. There are many of us who think Cab Sav tastes like adhesive tape. We have no problem with lighter, thinner wines because we haven't pickled our taste buds to the point that wine would need to peel paint to appeal to us. Does that make us a lower form of life? Under-educated? Declasse? A bumpkin? Snobs and their slavish followers deserve each other.
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9-12-2008 @ 12:15PM
Sharon said...
I would like to get opinion of Oak Leaf Merlots and Cab Sauv from Walmart. I get them for $2.99 a bottle and they seem to be pretty good. Just like to know what others think-not the wine snobs.
www.lingerieandintimates.com
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9-12-2008 @ 9:52AM
Teacher said...
If you like an oaky tasting wine with rich undertones, try Stone Cellars by Beringer (Cabernet or Merlot). Very reasonable and my guests always give it good reviews. Off-topic, if you're looking for a great Brut, (you're not supposed to call it Champagne) try Francois Montand. Sells at ABC liquor for under $10. Served it at my wedding and several 'non-Champagne drinking' guests over-indulged because they loved the taste so much after the Toast.
Bottom line- let the wine snobs and critics guide you, but decide for yourselves.
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9-12-2008 @ 10:20AM
tom, fla. said...
go with your tasts buds. a good wine does not have to cost
a lot. also, a high price does not really make for a good wine
tom
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9-12-2008 @ 11:13AM
John Parrish said...
When I was young ,Boones Farm was a Good wine......asmy pocket book got better, my wines got better....... but I've never been a Wine Snob...... However some of the finest wines for the money come from NC and Va. .... Dollar for dollar they are hard too beat....
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9-13-2008 @ 4:47AM
rjkaczmarek said...
Tom, how old are you? Are you even old enough to drink wine. What you know about Merlot doesn't even represent a decent discussion over cheese and crackers. Go back grade school and learn how to put an essay together before you attempt another diatribe.
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