Comebacks we'd like to see: #21 -- Howard Johnson's
Filed under: Food
This post is part of our series ranking the top 25 bygone products and trends we'd like to see return.
If I had a time machine, the first place I'd go would be back into the 1970s, to visit a Howard Johnson's.
OK, maybe, actually, it wouldn't be the first place I'd go. I'd enjoy seeing dinosaurs from a distance, touring the Roman Empire, and I'd have to try to get Abraham Lincoln's autograph. There's no way I wouldn't visit the 1920s, an era I'm fascinated with, and come to think of it, I'd have to check out one of Shakespeare's plays, and... well... okay, Howard Johnson's may not be the first place I'd visit. But I would want to go there.
In fact, now that I think about it, it probably would be my second or third stop. Running from dinosaurs would be thirsty work.
Back in the 1970s, when I was a kid, I didn't know it then, but whenever my grandparents took my parents, younger brother and I out to a Howard Johnson's for breakfast, lunch or dinner or just an ice cream -- we did it all -- we were engaging in a part of American dining history that had encompassed much of the 20th century.
According to the history page at HojoLand, a web site not run by Howard Johnson's, but a fan of Howard Johnson's, the hotel and restaurant chain began in 1925, albeit slowly. It was that year that Howard Johnson took over a drug store, soda fountain and newsstand from his father in Quincy, Massachussetts. Johnson improved the ice cream -- in part by doubling the amount of butterfat -- and that success led to him offering food. By 1929, he had opened up a second restaurant. By 1965, Howard Johnson's was the second largest institution to feed food to Americans, "second only to the U.S. Army," states HojoLand.
If it gives you any idea of just how big Howard Johnson's had become by the time the 1970s rolled around, consider that in 1974 Mel Brooks named one of the town characters, many of whom had the last name Johnson in his western comedy Blazing Saddles, Howard Johnson. He was played by John Hillerman, who later became famous as Higgins on Magnum, P.I.
It's hard to pinpoint exactly what it was about Howard Johnson's that made it so special, and everyone will have their own reasons for being nostalgic for the restaurant, which got into the hotel business in 1954. All I can base it on are my own memories, in which I remember a restaurant that always seemed quiet, probably because by the time I got there, the younger crowd was at that incorrigible upstart growing in popularity, McDonald's. Howard Johnson's, meanwhile, remained a favorite of senior citizens.
So I know a lot of my memories are vague and from the point of view of a young boy surrounded by a lot of senior citizens and my parents, but I remember a lot of wood paneling, really cold and delicious ice cream, cold cole slaw, juicy hamburgers and a lot of friendly waitstaff. I remember spending a week or two at Howard Johnson's when I was a kid, with my parents, while we were waiting to move into a house. I can still vividly remember being six years old and learning to swim in their outdoor swimming pool, and walking into the hotel room at one point and seeing an All in the Family episode in the middle of the afternoon...
These sound like boring memories, but maybe that's my point. Other than its orange roof, Howard Johnson's wasn't flashy. It was very predictable, and that's what a lot of people liked about it. Nothing changed, and that's how you wanted it. If you went into the restaurant in 1978 to get fried clams, you hoped they'd be the same clams that you ate in 1955. (Well, not exactly the same clams. You know what I mean.)
Not that Howard Johnson's is gone. But, no offense to the new owners, it's not what it used to be. In 1979, the original Howard Johnson's Company was sold. For a time, Marriott owned Howard Johnson's and was only interested in the hotels, according to a history at Wikipedia, and began selling off the restaurants. The franchised owned Howard Johnson's restaurants formed an alliance in 1986, creating a company called Franchise Associates Incorporated, with Marriott's blessing. But that just kept the existing restaurants in business rather than adding new eateries. As of a year ago, at least, there were only three Howard Johnson restaurants scattered across America. Today, the Howard Johnson's hotels are owned by a company called Wyndham Worldwide.
My grandmother passed away right around my high school graduation in 1988; my grandfather, in 2000. If I could hop in a time machine, it obviously wouldn't be Howard Johnson's that I'd be so interested in reconnection with; I'd really just go to one, in hopes of seeing my grandparents again. But it is one of the few, if only, restaurants for me that really did feel like a member of the family.
Geoff Williams is a business journalist and the author of C.C. Pyle's Amazing Foot Race: The True Story of the 1928 Coast-to-Coast Run Across America (Rodale).
If you had a time machine, where you go first?



Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
5-16-2008 @ 7:58AM
Scott said...
So many loved the iconic clam strips, but for me it was heavenly blueberry pancakes. I've never found better.
In high school in NJ my best bud and I used to sneak out in the middle of the night to HoJos for some hotcakes.
After college I drove half-way across the country in a Uhaul to settle into my 1st drive. My last night on the road trip I realized i was just too tired to make it, and then I came across a HoJo's. I checked in, got a few hours sleep, had me some blueberyr panacakes w/ crispy bacon, and lots of coffee. Then I hit the road to complete my trip.
How I miss the Orange roofs and comfort food.
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5-16-2008 @ 12:50PM
Ken said...
"...whenever my grandparents took my parents, younger brother and I ..."
Should be "took my parents, younger brother, and me ..."
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5-17-2008 @ 4:18AM
Rich C. said...
Our local HoJos counter was the place to meet since I was in high school back in the early 70s. Back in the late 90s they replaced it with a Friendly's and took away the counter. What a dive!!!
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5-17-2008 @ 4:36PM
Cathy said...
How about the kids birthday parties. One of the first places that I remember offering it.
Now everyplace does.....
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6-24-2008 @ 10:49PM
David A said...
Howard Johnson was the originator of what MacDonalds calls a Big Mac. Ho Jo served the 3-D back in the 50s or early 60s. It was 2 beef patties with 3 slices of hamburg bun, though I don't remember what they put on for sauce. I do remember them overflowing the buns.
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5-22-2008 @ 11:47AM
MARY said...
HO JO'S HAD THE BEST NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER, AND TO THIS DAY I STILL CAN'T FIND ONE THAT COMPARES TO IT, THEIR FRIED CLAMS WERE OUT OF THIS WORLD. THIS WAS A FAMILY STOP FOR US IN LONG ISLAND NY, WHENEVER WE WERE GOING TO VISIT GRANDMA OUT ON THE ISLAND.
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5-19-2008 @ 11:57AM
hmsboston said...
As a native New Englander, I prefer the full-belly fried clams that are extremely hard to find in the rest of the country; but when it came to clam strips, no one could beat Howard Johnson's. It's sad to think that the last HoJo restaurant may shutter its doors this year. The demise of the restaurant chain began in 1985 (although it had begun to decline a few years earlier) when Marriott purchased the company from the British firm which had bought it from the founder's son five years earlier. For some reason, Marriott considered the Howard Johnson brand to be a threat to its existing restaurants, and converted the company-owned stores to Big Boy or Roy Rogers. They also pressured the franchisees to convert. Most complied, but a couple of dozen resisted, formed Franchise Associates (FAI), and sued Marriott for damages. Marriott, realizing that it would probably be forced to pay out tens of millions of dollars if the case went to trial, responded by giving FAI all rights to the restaurants, free and clear. FAI had not been organized to operate the business, and over the next two decades the HoJo restaurant chain declined to almost nothing.
One factor contributing to the decline and fall of HoJo Restaurants which I have never seen metioned elsewhere, is the decision by the Federal Government in the 1950s or '70s not to allow restaurants at rest stops on interstate highways. Two HoJos on I-95 north of Boston that had been in operation for a couple of years were physically torn down. They had been the largest sources of tax revenue in the town where they were located.
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5-19-2008 @ 7:41PM
cj said...
I remember the good food!I loved the chicken croquettes they had and the burgers where great with big burmuda onions and toasted rolls!HJ's was also the better hotel chain up with Holiday inns........
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7-06-2008 @ 11:35PM
jen said...
Howard Johnson's was great. I remember that the ice cream was dipped out with kind of a square top rather than round. The peppermint was my favorite and it had the best slightly melted peppermint pieces in it. This was in the mid to late 60's...in Florida. What I would give for that ice cream again!
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7-12-2008 @ 7:54AM
Dottie Michael said...
My brother, Joe, came home one day wearing a large pin that said, "I ate a pig's dinner at Howard Johnson's". I think that it was one of his proudest moments. I hope there is a HoJo in Heaven. Today (July 12th) is Joe's birthday and he would have been 75 years old. Happy Birthday, Buddy. I miss you and I love you! Does anyone out there remember exactly what a pig's dinner was? I think it was a giant banana split of some sort. Would love to hear from anyone who remembers
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