Time to refinance: Eight steps to getting the best deal now
Filed under: Banks, Borrowing, Home, Real Estate
With the Federal Reserve aggressively cutting interest rates, you may be wondering if it's time to refinance your current mortgage. The answer is a simple yes. Back in January I locked in a 4.5% 15-year fixed rate mortgage the day after the Fed rate cut. Rates went back up to 5.5% within a week.
Generally you will benefit from a refinance as long as your interest rate will go down by at least 1% and the new loan does not require you to pay points in order to get that lowered rate. In most cases, a refinance is only worth it if you plan to stay in the home for more than three years. If you think you'll be selling the home before that, the costs of a refinance probably won't be recovered unless you can lower your rate by 2% or more.
With interest rates so low, the only kind of mortgage you should consider today is a traditional fixed-rate mortgage. Lock in those low rates. Don't play games with variable rates. If you can't afford the payment on a 30-year fixed-rate, consider a 40- or 50-year mortgage rather than a variable rate mortgage. You can always make extra principal payments when you can afford them to shorten the life of the loan in the future. But, of course, be sure your loan doesn't have any pre-payment penalties. Never accept a mortgage loan with pre-payment penalties. Ask that question when you're shopping for a loan and ask it again before you sign the papers to close the loan. Make sure you see in writing that there are no pre-payment penalties before you close the loan.
Check your credit report and score. Before applying for any new major loan it's a good idea to check your credit report and credit score. If you find any erroneous information on your credit report, clean it up before you start the application process. Cleaning things up as part of the underwriting process will only delay the loan process and could even kill the loan. To get the best rates, your credit score must be 730 or higher. People with this credit score can often get rates below the national average rate you'll see quoted around the Internet. If your score is below 675, you will pay significantly higher rates than you are seeing quoted. People with scores between 620 and 674 generally pay 1.5% to 1.9% higher rates for a mortgage. People with scores between 560 and 619 will find their rates are about 3.8% higher than the national average, if they can find a lender at all in today's tight mortgage market. Below that you'll probably find it almost impossible to get a refinance in today's market. You can use the round robin debt startegy to improve your score quickly.
Start your search for a new loan by contacting your current lender. When I'm considering a refinance, the first call I make is always to my current lender. As long as you've been paying your mortgage on time every month, most lenders want to find a way to keep you as a customer. But don't expect your best deal on your first phone call. Lenders' first offers usually tend to be higher than the final offer you'll get if you shop around. When the Fed cut rates by 0.75% in January, I made a call to my lender that day. My rate was 6.04% on a 15-year loan and I knew I could lower that by at least 1% so it was time to consider the refinance. It worked. I closed on 4.5%, 15-year fixed rate loan earlier this month. You do get your best rate offers on the day of a Fed cut and for one or two days after a Fed cut until the competition sorts itself out. So the window of opportunity is open with the Fed cutting rates by 0.75% again.
Shop for rates. Never accept the first offer you get from your bank. Always shop for rates. I've had a lot of success finding decent offers through Lending Tree over the years. Interestingly the last couple of times I used Lending Tree my bank was one of the five bidding for my business. Once your bank sees you in the bidding war the offers get much better. In today's volatile market, a solid, good paying customer is someone a bank does not want to lose.
Refinance or refinance with cash out. If you have both a mortgage and an equity line, one of your key decisions will be to just refinance your first mortgage or to fold in your equity line and possibly your credit card debt, so you have only one payment. You should avoid paying off credit card debt (which is unsecured) with a secured loan. While a credit card company can never foreclose on your house if you can't pay a bill, a lender holding your mortgage can foreclose on your home. An equity line is different. That too is secured debt, so if you can lower your interest rate on the balance in the equity line, you may want to pay that off as part of the refinance. But, you will get a better interest rate offer with a straight refinance. When you pay off an equity line it's called a refinance with cash out. In my recent attempt to refinance I found the cash out would result in an interest rate of 0.35% to 0.5% higher for the first mortgage. That may not sound like a lot, but over the course of 15 years on a sizable loan it adds up. Since I have so little on my equity line and it's variable rate was pegged to below prime, it made more sense for me just to refinance the first mortgage. So, always be sure to look at the rates for both a straight refinance and a refinance with cash out. Calculate total interest costs of both options. Use this mortgage payment calculator to calculate payments and total interest paid for both refinance options. To get total interest paid click on the link that says "Show/Recalculate Amortization Table." At the bottom of the amortization table, you'll find the total interest for the loan you input.
Let brokers who call discuss various options they offer. Mortgage brokers from each of the banks competing for your business will get very creative to get your business. They only way they make money is when they close the sale. Don't let them talk you into a mortgage you don't understand, but do let them discuss different options for whether or not to refinance or refinance with cash out. They can help you sort out what might be best for you given your current loan situation. By talking with four or five lenders, you can then sort out the information and make the best decision for yourself. Just remember, they are sales people on commission so don't get caught up with a slick talker. Take your time and compare offers.
Compare apples to apples. Before making a decision about a new mortgage, always ask each lender to send a "Good Faith Estimate." While they can fudge the offer by not giving you the total costs of closing, the "Good Faith Estimate" is a federal form that makes them lay it all out on the line. By requiring this form before agreeing to any offer, you will then more easily be able to compare closing costs. In some cases I found the "Good Faith Estimate" of one bank's bottom line looked better, but when I started looking at costs unique to my state (such as tax stamps), the out-of-state lenders had underestimated these costs dramatically making their bottom lines look better. So I knew that closing costs would be about the same in the end for the two or three lenders who gave the best offer.
Call back your current lender. With these offers in hand, I was then able to negotiate with my current lender for a better deal. When I told him the rates I got and reviewed his closing costs in comparison, he then came up with an offer I couldn't refuse. My initial interest rate offer from my bank was for a 4.85% loan with closing costs of $5,900. To keep my business I got an offer of 4.5% as long as I did a straight refinance without a cash out and my closing costs were lowered by $900 to $5,000 because certain costs, such as a reissue of my title insurance, could be cut. So I'm ending up with a 1.54% reduction in the interest rate on my 15-year mortgage. I'll be able to recoup those costs in about two years. You can find out how long it will take you to recoup your refinance costs with this calculator from Lending Tree. The cash I'm saving on my first mortgage will go toward paying my equity line off sooner.
Consider a float down option. Since the Fed may lower rates yet again, it's a good time to consider a float down option. That way you lock in today's low rates, but if rates drop between today and when you close your loan the float down option will allow the lender to unlock the loan, lower the rate and then relock the loan. It costs about 1/2 a point up front, but that is credited toward closing costs. Paying that fee does lock you into the lender. You certainly don't want to lose it by closing the loan with another lender. So be sure you've done your shopping before you agree to a float down option.
Lita Epstein has written more than 20 books including the "Complete Idiot's Guide to Improving Your Credit Score" and "The 250 Questions You Should Ask to Avoid Foreclosure."
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Reader Comments (Page 1 of 1)
2-02-2008 @ 7:29PM
James Bellamy said...
Does using a credit union for refinancing get you a better rate. And do you think that the rates will drop even more with the economy like it is.
Reply
2-02-2008 @ 6:49PM
Lita Epstein said...
You can certainly check with your credit union. Make that your first call, then follow the rest of the steps I suggest.
Lita
2-17-2008 @ 3:05PM
Linda said...
I am currently in a float type loan. My mortgage company believes that the Feds will again lower the prime rate and that interest rates will go down again.
Unfortunately, since she said that they have gone up alot. So I will wait. As far as credit unions are concerned, I dont see that they have a better rate.
Yesterday I was in my local credit union and I saw their rate which is about 1/2 pt higher then the current overnight average for the country. If you are thinking about a refi start checking with local lenders and even LendingTree. But remember these people are all out to make money. Compare, dont accept the first offer as gosple.
2-06-2008 @ 9:10PM
MICHAEL DELL said...
I'M UNABLE TO REFI WITH MY CURRENT LENDER UNLESS I REAFFIRM MY LOAN AFTER CHAPTER 7, THE LOAN WAS CONTINUALLY PAID ON TIME DURING AND AFTER BANKRUPTCY PROCEEDINGS
Reply
2-07-2008 @ 5:19AM
MICHAEL DELL said...
I'M UNABLE TO REFI WITH MY CURRENT LENDER UNLESS I REAFFIRM MY LOAN AFTER CHAPTER 7, THE LOAN WAS CONTINUALLY PAID ON TIME DURING AND AFTER BANKRUPTCY PROCEEDINGS
Reply
2-09-2008 @ 7:12PM
marlenejamin said...
I,m in the process of refinancing to lower interest rate and [pay off credit cards. I,ve had two difference quote, and I,m working on the third one, the closing cost have diffference 5000 to 9000, and interest rate 3 points difference.they keep changing the the rates and terms, this is really con fusing, now I,m waiting for dietech answer.
Reply
2-17-2008 @ 3:24PM
Joe said...
I have no idea why you keep referring to the fed cutting the federal funds interest rate as if this has a positive influence on mortgage rates. This typically has no effect of fixed 30 or 15 year fixed mortgage rates that you refer to in your article. Further, rates tend to rise when the fed cuts the federal funds rates. Articles like this do more to confuse homeowners then actually help. People typically miss the best deal waiting for another fed rate cut. The best rates can typically be found prior to the fed cutting interest rates.
Reply
2-17-2008 @ 3:39PM
Lita Epstein said...
Joe,
I have no idea where you get the idea that mortgage rates don't drop after a rate cut. I've lowered my mortgage interest rate many times over the years immediately after a rate cut. Try using Lending Tree and see what you are offered if your lender won't play ball.
In fact I'm closing on a loan next week that will lower my mortgage interest rate from 6% to 4.5% - a rate I locked in two days after the first Fed cut.
I have seen stories indicating fewer banks are lowering their rates because of the risky loan environment, so it may take more work to find the best rates, but they are out there.
Lita
Reply
2-17-2008 @ 6:14PM
pam said...
who did you get the 4.5 rate with and what were the points and term of loan???
2-17-2008 @ 7:45PM
Ken said...
Lita:
Joe is right. Mortgage rates don't coincide with Fed Cuts. Mortgage rates are determined by mortgage back securities. Rates typically go up after Fed cuts because for the bond investor there is a greater chance of inflation with a rate cut. Therefore the bond investor needs a higher rate of return to take on that additional risk. We have seen about a .75 difference higher in rates since the Fed cut 1.25% a couple of weeks ago.
I also agree with Wayne about LendingTree. Lendingtree is a lead source for lenders. The typical loan officer that is buying their leads are not experienced enough to have their book a business. What I have found is that the offers are usually low ball offers and when you get to the closing table the final deal is different because "you didn't qualify for that deal"
Ken
2-17-2008 @ 3:46PM
Lita Epstein said...
Lynn,
Have you talked with a lender that specializes in FHA loans. There may be some leeway there.
You also may want to check with the Neighborhood Assistance Corporation of America:
https://www.naca.com/index_main.jsp
Lita
Reply
2-17-2008 @ 7:49PM
Lita Epstein said...
Pam,
I got the loan through one of the major banks. Sorry I don't want to give any more personal data than that since this is the internet. It was a 15-year term, no points, .75 origination fee.
Lita
2-17-2008 @ 7:55PM
Lita Epstein said...
Ken,
I talked with five bankers the day of the rate cut. All five told me the same thing - the day of the Fed cut and one or two days after the Fed cut rates do go down and then drift back up. The key is to lock in the new rate in that three-day period.
No one should ever lock in a rate or give any banker or mortgage broker a penny until they get a truth in lending statement and rate lock. If someone finds the closing documents different than the truth-in-lending at time of quote, he or she can then complain to the federal agency that audits that type of lender. Banks don't won't to have to deal with the paperwork related to a complaint - especially that special audit. In most cases just the threat of complaint will make them behave.
Lita
Reply
2-18-2008 @ 12:14PM
Joe said...
Lita, FYI I have been in the lending bus. for quite some time. What would you say if I told you that on Jan. 15th more then a week before before you locked in at a 4.5 you could have gotten a 4.125 if you watched the market as opposed to waiting for the fed to react to what was already happening. If you watched the bonds then you would have noticed a dip in the market that was the fed was reacting to as opposed to missing the boat by waiting to make a decision based on the fed does. FYI there was also a 4.875 30 year fixed avail. without points. I mean no disrespect to you what so ever, however to make life easier for readers I suggest that instead of worrying about the fed. Just watch the ten year bond. This will tell you what rates are doing on even a minute to minute basis. Obviously mortgage rates are a little more complicated then this, however the 10 year bond will give you the basic direction as to what the rates are doing.
As to lending tree, they are great to get and idea as to what is out there, however the best deals are typically found at your small time local mortgage broker’s office. This person is typically not whacking out thousands of dollars a month on marketing. The main reason this is so is because rates for the most part are the same across the board, only the difference is in what cost are associated with the provider’s structure which is then convey to the borrower.
Reply
2-18-2008 @ 9:30PM
Lynn said...
We tried to refinance however we were told we owe more on the loan than our home is worth. We purchased our new home in 2005. Are there any mortgage lenders who handle situations such as this?
Reply
2-19-2008 @ 4:58AM
Joe said...
Lynn, I am aware of only 1 lender still possibly providing them - Irwin Home Equity
I suggest extreme caution when considering an above 100% LTV program. For a vast amount of people there is absolutely no benefit to these programs and typically can put homeowners in a worse position. The bar for qualifying for these products are very high, almost to the point that most people that do qualify can actually work out better alternatives without securing additional debt to the home. Use only as a last resort. Good luck
Reply
3-07-2008 @ 4:57PM
Mayda said...
I have an ARM with prepayment penalty that is due on Dec'08... I have been considering refinancing, and still, I'm not sure it's the best option... with the penalty and closing costs adding more than 12K (at least), is it better to wait until the penalty is over, or should I wait for the next cut on interest rates to lock a fixed rate...? The original loan was for 166K, the current balance after 2 years of payments is more than 176K... should I try to refinance ASAP...? the name ot the loan was NCARM MTA 1st mo intro PO 3yr HPP... I should have asked what all these letters meant back then... any suggestions from your experts...?
Reply
3-19-2008 @ 5:53PM
Theresa said...
if you can handle the reset through the term of your prepayment penalty (is the prepayment penalty in effect after the ARM adjusts in december and if so for how long?) try this - it may be an option for you.